It’s at the heart of beautiful Hamburg that Karl Lagerfeld chose to unveil the new Chanel Métiers d’art collection, and more specifically at the Elbphilharmonie concert hall. The latter is pegged as an exceptional building conceived by architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron, located by the city’s grandiose river. And amidst all this architectural beauty, celebrities gathered to celebrate Chanel’s greatness, including Ambassadors Kristen Stewart, Lily-Rose Depp, Tilda Swinton, Rinko Kikuchi, Marine Vacth and Anna Mouglalis – amongst others.
For this unique collection, Lagerfeld summoned the past, the present and the future, by instilling the collection with images of the Hamburg port and the silhouettes of the merchant navy crew in contrast with the House’s modernism – think an updated version of pea coats, drop-front trousers, striped tops and caps. Indeed, armed with this confidence, Lagerfeld revisits the House’s heritage and codes, enlarging the masculine/feminine lingo to awaken the bold and daring woman in all of us. Looks were upholstered with sailor collars and mini-skirts and extra-wide trousers were designed to feminize the whole concept. There were fingerless gloves, pulled down caps and long-knitted socks with brogues and bows. Chanel’s moniker tweed was accompanied by broadcloth, cashmere and flannel, while a series of feathers, embroidery, rhinestones, mother-of-pearl and beads recalled the lavish nights spent at the Elbphilharmonie.
Colors skewed from black to beige, grey, navy blue, brick, flashes of gold and red, pinstripes and sailor stripes – all of which were a nod to Chanel’s authenticity and Hamburg’s mighty architecture. Accessories were ever-so alive, as we spotted the sailor’s bag, the minaudières and Chanel’s Gabrielle bag in checked tweed, reminiscent of Hamburg’s brickwork. There were also earrings and brooches with marine anchors and chains elegantly shaping up to become sautoirs and bracelets.
It was a show that proved that masculine is more feminine. And yes, as Gabrielle Chanel once said: “dress a woman in black and white at a party and you’ll see only her.”
