Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collections have always been in tune with times, standing between the present and the future. And for her Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection, the Creative Director found inspiration in “The Next Era”, a work imagined by Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi bringing together large-scale portraits of women that marked the history of painting from the 16th to the 19th century and showcasing their stacked eyes to highlight the judgment that conditioned – and still conditions – women’s past and present. Through Chiuri’s collection, the gaze is now reversed to offer a new perspective of the art history embodied by the (re)construction of the relationship between the body and the garment.
Technicalities met aesthetics, savoir-faire and materials – giving life to extraordinary creations. Think the iconic Bar jacket transformed into a system that regulates the body’s humidity, and a bodysuit that appears like an organic network of colored veins and arteries in luminescent colors and maintains a constant temperature. An embroidered version of the emblematic Roger Vivier for Dior pump, belts with multiple pockets and adjustable lace corsets completed many outfits to highlight their new place on the list of everyday essentials. Skirts were reinvented in fabrics borrowed from men’s wardrobe, while embroidery paved its way to technical knitwear, waterproof materials, Nylon and cashmere – proving that through Maria Grazia Chiuri’s creative approach, a new world can be invented.
