Azzi & Osta Bring Back the Golden Age of Haute Couture
“We are honoring the golden age, where timeless silhouettes were invented and became forever engraved in history. Through the lens of Irving Penn, the very essence of couture as we perceive it, is omnipresent, highly orchestrated yet effortless. These are the aesthetics we value the most and always strive to reimagine.” - George Azzi & Assaad Osta.
Haute Couture week was full of surprises, on both a creative and fashionable level. So it only seemed fair power duo George Azzi and Assaad Osta push further beyond their sensual and vivacious comfort zone to channel an over-top, state-of-the-art collection worthy of the glamor of the golden age of the 1950s haute couture.
Indeed, the Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection gushed the House’s signature sculpted silhouettes, all of which featured concave waistlines elegantly created with noble Silk Moiré and Double Satin Duchesse. The pieces were all reminiscent of the structured couture fabrics of the 50s – fabrics that payed homage to vintage allure and modern glamor all at once. To most eyes, the collection might look like yet another work of art concocted by the talented designers. But look closely and you’ll see the history of haute couture unraveling before your eyes, as photography, art and fashion come together in pure harmony to celebrate the work of photographer Irving Penn.
Indeed, inspired by the famed photographer, the power duo transported the world back in time for just an ephemeral moment, “Through the Lens” of a 1950s photographers’ studio. In the broadest terms, this meant a lightness of motion captured with a fine craftsmanship executed with tulle and lace. Colors skewed from rose pink to deep Orchid, crimson red, Gardenia, Pastel Lavender, grey Lilac and green Lily – granted, inspired by exquisite floral notes. With the notion of romanticism in mind, the 24-piece collection flooded with red-carpet worthy creations, ranging from feminine sculpted gowns to sweeping gowns of exaggerated proportions and vintage style jackets with masculine-coded silhouettes such as tailored pant suits. But perhaps our coup de Coeur must definitely be the unique re-imagination of Penn’s iconic “Aphrodisiacs” image through a whirlpool of tulle, Chantilly lace, silk Gazar, thread embroidery and dentelle de Lyon – a combination that served to the splendor of the dress that featured on the back an intricately detailed faux bow-tie, in the form of the $100 note highlighted in the photograph. With a team of six expert embroiderers and four hundred hours of work behind it, the dress is truly a piece to remember.
Article Written by Cindy Menassa