Like a soundtrack, AMIRI’s Fall-Winter 2023 collection of menswear was a layered composition that finds inspiration in CEO and Creative Director Mike Amiri’s memories and ambitions. It depicts past times that Mike used to spend at legendary US producer DJ Premier’s studio in Queens, exchanging ideas and discovering archival cuts that formed his career as a designer.
With this in mind, it comes as no surprise for the collection to make from production a theme that was embodied through loose apparels, fluid designs with generous proportions, and slouchy shapes that exuded a certain downtown ease. Sophisticated materials – such as silk, cashmere, shearling and faux fur – gave garments a luxurious feel, while a palette of monochrome, silver grey, azure and ochre enlivened by deep red and mint green captured the city’s hues.
Suiting, which is an emblem of classicism, took a casual turn that redefined comfort and elegance. Blazers borrowed the iconic properties of a varsity jacket, and casual shapes were artfully detailed. Pleated pants, which were at times made of soft teddy fabric with oversized utility pockets, were paired with knitwear and untucked shirt hems appearing from beneath. Swarovski sequins were hand-embroidered and loose-ended to resemble tassels, signature bandana prints were created with patchworks of faux leather and suede, and patterns hand-painted in the studios morphed into shearling jackets.
Innovation clearly was the main character of this play, depicting Mike’s early days as a designer of contemporary stagewear for world-renowned musicians through techniques that could at least be described as phenomenal.