Art Deco style has always occupied a special place in the universe, imagination and artistry of Yves Saint Laurent. Besides the pair of Dunand vases that was the designer’s earliest and most precious among his personal collection of objects, his Parisian residence was infused with influences from the modernist interiors designed by Jean-Michel Frank for avant-garde patrons in the 1930s. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that traces of Art Deco would be found in his runway collections, and continue to inspire the House’s collections up until today.
Although not in a pronounced way, this source of inspiration outlines Anthony Vaccarello’s Winter 22 collection for the House – translating into looks that reflect the audacity of independent-minded activist publisher Nancy Cunard, who dressed ahead of her time in masculine-inspired pieces. Dramatic new shapes met signature Saint Laurent creations that enveloped long, fluid lines underneath, while outerwear pieces were made of denser material and paired with flute-like dresses in delicate fabrics. Flashes of transparency added a flattering feel to some looks, and unexpected styles of footwear added lightness. Volume was expressed through strong shoulders, and innovation through master imitation furs produced by the expert Saint Laurent craftsmen. As for the color palette, matte hues took over, inviting for a moment of reflection while adding the perfect finishing touch to a poetic show.